Monday, 20 December 2010

Getting My History Straight

Hi there! My name is Darren Cooper and when they let me out of my box, (which does happen occasionally!) I like nothing better than the freedom of the open road, the wind in my hair and the smell of pleather in my nostrils.

Weekend Bender Part IV - Getting my history straight.

I was never that interested in history at school, it just didn't seem relevant to me then I don't think. Perhaps as I've gotten older I can relate more to the past, certainly my interest in modern history is much more keen than it used to be.

I guess that is the key isn't it, relevance. There's no point listening to even the most animated spokesperson if you have little or no interest in the subject.

Rainbow tile
Thankfully Manchester's LGBT history is something that this city positively celebrates - now there's a subject I can relate to. In fact since Europride was held in Manchester in 2003, the city has run its very own official LGBT history trail which is hosted by LGBT guides from the city's visitors centre, more details can be found at this link.

This is also just one of two officially sanctioned LGBT history walks to take place in any city in the world, the other being in San Francisco.

Anyone who knows Manchester will also know that this is a city that is awash with a vibrant modern history. The birthplace of the Industrial Revolution, the Suffragette movement started here as did the labour movement for workers rights. The city has always spawned big ideas, Karl Marx and Engels were inspired to write the Communist party manifesto in the city.

All of this history is well documented though, having been duly recorded for the history books, which can't be said of Manchester's queer past. When delving back as far as the late 1700s things start to get a little murky, this just makes for a more personal and interesting history lesson as far as I am concerned though.

One of the few places where there are records is the law courts where the sentences for hard labour - which used to be the punishment for homosexuality - were handed out. The records go as far back as the late 1700s until the Victorian era with hundreds of gay men being jailed. Ironically the courts are at the beginning of Canal Street which of course is now the heart of Manchester's gay village.








It's not just this area that the trail takes in though and there are over 20 rainbow tiles set in the pavement in all parts of the city to commemorate LGBT history. These tiles were commissioned by Manchester Council from local artist Mark Kennedy, and each one marks a significant moment and a colourful story in the city's history.

One such story is of a party which was raided by police in the city centre in 1880, taking place in of all places a temperance hall. Police reports of the actual raid tell of "disgraceful proceedings" and of the 47 men in attendance 22 being dressed as women. 

This is just one many tales of illicit and secretive meetings and events taking place in and around the city. Certainly a sure sign that Manchester's queer life was alive and kicking even in the up tight - buttoned up Victorian era.


Alan Turing statue
As well as stories from the every day lives of gay and lesbian Mancunians some famous names are also mentioned in the tour. Edward Carpenter, Quentin Crisp, Noel Coward and Alan Turing all feature at some point during our 2 hour walk.

Most poignant perhaps is the story of Alan Turing who is now rightly recognised with his own statue in Sackville Gardens as well as having one of Manchester's main streets named after him.

Despite being part of the code breaking team at Bletchley Park that cracked the enigma code during World War II Turing was still prosecuted because of his homosexuality in the 1950s. His tragic story highlights why it is so important to remember our history and certainly makes me think about the freedom that I so often take for granted.

If you're interested in organising a tour for a group of friends then call the Manchester Tourist Information Line on 0871 222 8223

Manchester is only 2 hours and 7 minutes from London. 

Fly to Manchester in 60 minutes from London with British Airways  and BMI

For even more information visit the official Visit Manchester LGBT website.

Thursday, 2 December 2010

Weekend Bender - Part III

Hi there! My name is Darren Cooper and when they let me out of my box, (which does happen occasionally!) I like nothing better than the freedom of the open road, the wind in my hair and the smell of pleather in my nostrils.

Flip Round the Fruit Loop

If there is anything that is going to motivate me to hit the town it's a new outfit, and thanks to my recent shopping spree I have just the ticket to make a splash on Canal Street. No - that doesn't mean that I'm planning a dip, are you crazy - in these jeans!

I'm glad that we've got that sorted out.

Personally I like walking and have no problem discovering a city on foot. Those of you who are not so big on travelling à pied though will be pleased to know that there's a great public transport system in Manchester, but I won't be needing that to get to the gay village and Canal Street.

Canal Street Night-life
Staying in the centre of the city is of course the best option as everything is close by and there's plenty of choice for all budgets. My own hotel, The Place I've mentioned before is a 4 star apart so hotel, so there's loads of space and also it's just a hop, skip, and, oh another skip (well why not) to the villagey gayness along and around the famous Canal Street.

This waterside, pedestrianised area has to be some of the best real estate in the North West of England, but it wasn't always the case. After the canal's decline as a mode of transport for industry the area became very run down and derelict. As with many cities these neglected areas are ripe for regeneration and the local LGBT community were quick to make their mark on the area.

It began with a few clandestine venues where friends of Dorothy gathered and furtive meetings along the dark canal tow path were all gay and lesbian visitors could expect - how things have changed!

Canal Street today is a positive cornucopia of queer and boasts a glittering procession of venues that are anything but inconspicuous. I'm pretty certain that bars like Queer, which proudly displays its name in huge shiny silver lettering is a relatively recent edition to Canal Street. At least I can't imagine such a prominent declaration of poofery would have been imaginable even a couple of decades ago.

The most famous queer street in the UK
Of course all of that has changed now and Manchester announced itself on the world stage, sequins and all, with arrival of the excellent Queer as Folk (the UK version is still the best), which launched Man-chest-heria!

Talk about from one extreme to the next! First you're not allowed to be a fruit, next minute we are everyone's favourite five a day, make up your minds people!

The resulting publicity for the area was no doubt a good thing but there was a downside. When the Slug and Lettuce moved on to Canal Street for a slice of the gay action Manchester's LGBT community knew that something had to be done, and so the Village Business Association was conceived.

Thankfully there has been a redressing of the balance and actually the number and variety of queer venues has actually increased, while the Slug and Lettuce is now no more, shame!

It's worth mentioning that it's not only just Canal Street where you'll find a sprinkling of fairy dust either. Richmond and Bloom Streets just behind Canal Street are definitely also worth exploring, so I'd definitely recommend taking a flip around the fruit loop.

Canal Street at Night
My own evening started at Velvet, which caters for sleepers in the hotel, drinkers in the rather glamorous street level bar and, in my case eaters, thanks to an equally swanky basement restaurant.

Next door at this end of Canal Street is Taurus, another queer restaurant and bar which, like Velvet it turns out is big on community involvement. The friendly locals are vocal supporters of their pubs which is evident in the amount that they give back and get involved in local LGBT issues.

Thankfully my new friends are full of advice on where I should take in on my night out. Queer just next door on Canal Street is highly recommended, certainly the crowds inside jumping to the dance music seem to agree. I have time for a sly one in Churchills, a traditional gay pub that's fun and friendly before moving down Canal Street in search of further treats.

The most popular bars also seem to be the largest with more high octane goings on at Crunch and Manto, which are packing in plenty of punters. Spirit is obviously another favourite spread over 3 floors, further inspection also reveals a rather snazzy roof terrace.

I settle for another drink (or two) and a boogie at Via courtesy of some drag-spun camp classics before venturing off Canal Street to New York New York  via Vanilla, Manchester's favourite lesbian bar, which by the way is going off, those Manchester ladeez certainly know how to party!

My last call of the evening is one of the latest additions to Manchester's gay scene, The Eagle. Just behind the strip on Bloom Street this is one of several men only bars that have recently opened up in the village. Another step that Manchester's LGBT community have taken to keep the village str8 friendly, but essentially it's us who are still in charge here.

Members of the Village Business Association include: 


AXM
Baa Bar
Body Positive Northwest
Churchills
Clone Zone
Crunch2
Cruz 101
Gaydio
George House Trust
Hot Village
Lesbian Gay Foundation
Manto
Manchester Pride
New York New York
Poptastic
The Rembrant Bar & Hotel
Spirit
Taurus
The Gay Village Online
Velvet
Via Fossa
View
Village Off Licence 

Manchester is only 2 hours and 7 minutes from London. 

Fly to Manchester in 60 minutes from London with British Airways  and BMI

For even more information visit the official Visit Manchester LGBT website.

Wednesday, 17 November 2010

Weekend Bender - Part II

Hi there! My name is Darren Cooper and when they let me out of my box, (which does happen occasionally!) I like nothing better than the freedom of the open road, the wind in my hair and the smell of pleather in my nostrils.

A Fleet of Berties

It would appear that romance has its price - no - not the cost of a taxi fare from some unknown part of Greater Manchester, more like a dull thud behind the eyes.

Still, it's a price worth paying for such an exquisite evening of fun and frolics all thanks to the inaugural Manchester Gala Ball (See previous blog) and nothing that a couple of Nurofen, a strong coffee and a bout of therapy, of the retail kind won't fix.

Showered, shaved and stuffed to the gunnels with a hearty breakfast, including the ubiquitous black pudding (essential for the start of any day up north) I head out to discover Manchester by day.

It's stopped raining thankfully and there's even a glimmer of sun in the sky, the streets look clean and fresh, much like myself (get her!) as I cut-a-dash out of the hotel to explore. For those in the know the Northern Quarter is the place to head for apparently with quirky, cool and original shops, cafes and boutiques - sounds perfect, and, as with most things in central Manchester is easily reached on foot, or so I thought!

Captain America Film Set
According to my map the Northern Quarter is between Piccadilly and the Ancoats Centre, however my chosen route is blocked by a truck parked across the street and several slightly menacing looking men. It turns out they're security, I know this because they have day-glo vests which display the word 'Security' in big letters across their broad shoulders - nice work Watson!

It turns out that this is a film shoot for the new Captain America movie out some time in 2011. The security is tight thanks to some Hollywood heavyweights on the cast including Samuel L. Jackson, Chris Evans, Hugo Weaving and our very own Dominic Cooper, how very glamorous!

Unfortunately I don't get a glimpse of anyone remotely famous (at least no one I recognise), what I can see though is the set which resembles a New York street circa 1940 complete with vintage cars and extras milling about and looking sharp in zoot-suits.

Of course it's no coincidence that Manchester pays more than a passing resemblance to the Big Apple, or rather I should say that the Big Apple resembles Manchester. As the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution Manchester was the most technologically advanced city in the world at the end of the nineteenth century and the blue print for a modern, progressive metropolis.

Manchester imitating New York
New York's own red brick architecture was built by imported Mancunian builders to emulate the world's most industrialised city. Over 40 other cities around the world actually named themselves Manchester such was the city's success. Imitation they say is the most sincere form of flattery, and Manchester has received more than its fair share of both it would seem.

The resulting film set looks incredibly convincing and I make a mental note to hit the flicks once the film is released and not resort to screaming "I was there when they filmed that!" like some incredible dullard.

Enough history though - I'm such a bore once I get started, and anyway, shopping beckons!

It's a short detour around the film set to my destination, the Northern Quarter. This area of the city has become Manchester's creative, urban heart in recent years and a great place to head for a slice of real Manchester. Although just a stones throw from the high street shops and brands in and around the city centre, this area of Manchester is well known for its independent outlets, cafes and restaurants and also some of the city's hippest nightlife.

During the day the area also reminds me a little of New York and the East Village in particular. It's arty, quirky and a little eccentric and it is easy to see why artists, media types and independent retailers thrive here.

If a place was made for browsing this is it, the psychedelic cup cakes at Café Pop look tempting, but deadly so I resist and next door the retail experience at Pop Boutique is truly out there. Vintage fashion is a big draw for the area and American Graffitti is the place to head for all things retro.

Manchester Craft & Design Centre
Actually I'm more of a label queen and thankfully I'm not disappointed. Oi Poilloi's casual fashion range spans the globe and features brands that are not just bang on trend - but BIG BANG on trend. The independent fashion-fest extends further at Affleck's, a former department store that has been re-invented to house dozens of concessions from up and coming designers and brands. I depart with several bags of new threads, and oodles of fashion kudos!

I've also ear-marked the Manchester art and design centre as worth a visit. Situated in a former Victorian railway building the centre also houses concessions, this time from local artists and crafts-people. All wrought iron with a completely glass roof the natural light in this building lends itself perfectly as a creative space and is utilised to the full. Ceramics, jewellery, prints and paintings each one a perfect and unique Christmas gift - had I not just blown my budget on yet more designer jeans and trainers!

But at least I'll look fabulous at Christmas.

I'm starving! Luckily I clocked what looked like a promising lunch option whilst doing the rounds and head back for a closer look. It's called Teacup and there are even a few gay and lesbian couples lunching or perusing menus. I had been thinking that this was just the kind of area that would attract a few family members so happily I'm not disappointed.

Right on queue, a whole fleet of Berties (the collective noun for a group of gay men) arrive, obviously lunch with the girls is very much on the menu today and the excitement is palpable. I manage to crack an 'alright luv' and a cheeky wink from one of the party but can only manage a weak smile in return - how dreary!

However I do also feel like I have been part of some 'in' kind of banter, which feels good and skip out after lunch - all light on my loafers!

Manchester's Exchange Square
Exiting the Northern Quarter I find myself right on Piccadilly Gardens, which is the very heart of Manchester. It's all hustle and bustle here, a far cry from the relaxed cool of the Northern Quarter, even if it is only a couple of streets away.

None the less Piccadilly is home to its own shopping delights, and the area around Exchange Square, The Triangle and New Cathedral Street, King Street and St Ann’s Square which is positively packed with high street brands and stores.

This was the area of Manchester that was destroyed by an IRA bomb in 1996 and the consequent re-development has made this one of the most attractive shopping centres for both retailers and the public alike.

I particularly like the pedestrianised Market Street, home to the Arndale Centre and a pleasant change from the car clogged centres of many cities. Manchester is also, rather fabulously, home to Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and House of Fraser which is testament to the city's success as a serious retail destination.

Sadly for me (and my bank balance) I'm already salivating at the thought!

Manchester is only 2 hours and 7 minutes from London. 

Fly to Manchester in 60 minutes from London with British Airways  and BMI

For even more information visit the official Visit Manchester LGBT website.

Thursday, 11 November 2010

Weekend Bender - Part 1

Hi there! My name is Darren Cooper and when they let me out of my box, (which does happen occasionally!) I like nothing better than the freedom of the open road, the wind in my hair and the smell of pleather in my nostrils.

Euston station, London - destination, Manchester.

The trip up to Manchester is something of a pilgrimage for us queer folk. Not the penitent kind of course; why crawl when Virgin Trains can whisk you there in a little over 2 hours? After picking up my ticket I settle into my pre-booked window seat and delve into 'The Fry Chronicles' as I hurtle northward.

I have of course been to Manchester on more than one occasion and I am sure that there are many of us lucky enough to have already been seduced by the many charms of the UK's queerest northern Mecca, including it would seem Stephen Fry himself!

"It was hard not to like Manchester. Being called 'love', 'chuck' or a 'daft barmcake can only delight a southerner used to the lonely and unsmiling lovelessness of London and the south-east"

I couldn't agree more - but then who am I to disagree with a national treasure? Only one thing for it then, to find out for myself.

Manchester Pride Float
This visit I am avoiding the mass influx that invades Manchester from all corners of the UK - and the world - during August bank holiday for the annual pride celebrations and heading there in September. While Manchester Pride has become the queer event of the UK's LGBT calendar there's a whole lot more to Manchester than the best pride event in the country happening all through the year.

Actually it has been a full month since pride finished - enough time I hope for Manchester to get over the monumental hang over it inflicts on itself during the largest queer street party of the year. OK - perhaps that's me I'm talking about, either way I'm hoping for a healthy portion (or two) of full-fat northern fun this weekend.

I've also managed (somehow!) to get my hands on a ticket to the Manchester Pride Gala Ball, which is being held at the suitably grand Palace Hotel. It's a black tie affair and the hottest ticket in town, I'm sure that I'll just fit right in! The evening is being hosted by none other than Mr. Graham Norton so I'm expecting plenty of campery and frivolities, as well as plenty of wine of course, which always helps.

I'll keep you posted as events unfold!

Palace Theatre Ball Room
I have to admit that I love a good ball me, and this is the inaugural Manchester Pride Gala Dinner so the excitement is palpable. The gowns and tuxedos are extravagant numbers - where else could you accessorise your black tie with some glitter, sequins, or a plastic flamingo and get away with it?

One thing I love about Manchester is that it is a city that doesn't do anything by halves, and the Pride Ball is no exception. The evening's venue - the ballroom at the Palace Hotel - is a suitably grand gathering spot for 400 of Manchester's glitterati who have turned out in full force for the event.

Manchester Pride boasts some pretty heavyweight patrons who give it significant support all through the year, tonight being no exception. Anthony Cotton has brought along a full table of the Corrie cast - whose enthusiastic and vocal approval goes down a storm. Sir Ian McKellen's attendance adds gravitas and he effortlessly charms everyone in the room with the tale of his first recorded erection. Apparently the sight of one Ivor Novello on stage at the Palace Theatre (opposite where we sit) in his dressing gown had a memorable, and lasting effect on the adolescent Mckellen - priceless!

TV presenter and Mancunian Man-totty, Anthony Crank is also on the guest list, whom I find myself rubbing shoulders with (figuratively speaking of course) at the bar. I do hope that my feigned nonchalance managed to hide my own McKellen-esque type exhilaration!

Auction Prize - Signed Graham Norton Poster.
And as if that wasn't enough excitement for one evening, Graham Norton kept the soiree jogging along nicely as compere with a few choice and very cheeky tales of his own - but don't worry Mr. Norton, your secrets safe with me (as I couldn't possibly regale those kind of stories here!)

Despite the A-gay endorsement though I get the feeling that the real star of the show here is Manchester itself. Firstly Manchester Pride is certainly an event - quite rightly - that the assembled crowd and Manchester's LGBT community feel very proud of, and why not? This is after all the largest and most successful gay pride event to take place annually in the UK, it even makes some money for heavens sake!

Secondly - I couldn't really be anywhere else in the world apart from Manchester. The atmosphere is cool yet unpretentious, riotously fun without being tacky and everyone is friendly, and genuinely so, which from my experience is impossible to fake.

"Fancy a dance duck?" Silly question! And so I hit the floor doing - as usual - doing my own impression of a daft barmcake.

Gay Village At Night
Eventually I manage to drag myself off the dance floor (don't worry - there weren't any casualties) and head back to the hotel making a short detour to take in Canal Street. I think I'm looking pretty suave in my deconstructed DJ look, but that might just be the wine talking and anyway, no one seems to notice.

Despite being partied out myself, Canal Street is still in full swing and it was definitely worth the diversion for a late night/early morning saunter. It's started to rain (this is Manchester after all) and puddles have formed which reflect the bright neon lights of the bars along Manchester gay village's most famous street.

I can't help but bop along, humming to the camp classics that are playing in Via and Manto as I walk past, and stomping in the puddles that explode with the reflected light. Actually, it all feels rather romantic - Who'd have thought!?!

OK - so I might be a little pie-eyed, but that doesn't mean I can't also be starry-eyed too, does it?


Manchester is only 2 hours and 7 minutes from London. 
Visit National Rail or Virgin Trains for fares and timetables.
Fly to Manchester in 60 minutes from London with British Airways  and BMI.


For even more information visit the official Visit Manchester LGBT website. 
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