Hi there! My name is Darren Cooper and when they let me out of my box, (which does happen occasionally!) I like nothing better than the freedom of the open road, the wind in my hair and the smell of pleather in my nostrils.
A Fleet of Berties
It would appear that romance has its price - no - not the cost of a taxi fare from some unknown part of Greater Manchester, more like a dull thud behind the eyes.
Still, it's a price worth paying for such an exquisite evening of fun and frolics all thanks to the inaugural Manchester Gala Ball (See previous blog) and nothing that a couple of Nurofen, a strong coffee and a bout of therapy, of the retail kind won't fix.
Showered, shaved and stuffed to the gunnels with a hearty breakfast, including the ubiquitous black pudding (essential for the start of any day up north) I head out to discover Manchester by day.
It's stopped raining thankfully and there's even a glimmer of sun in the sky, the streets look clean and fresh, much like myself (get her!) as I cut-a-dash out of the hotel to explore. For those in the know the Northern Quarter is the place to head for apparently with quirky, cool and original shops, cafes and boutiques - sounds perfect, and, as with most things in central Manchester is easily reached on foot, or so I thought!
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Captain America Film Set |
According to my map the Northern Quarter is between Piccadilly and the Ancoats Centre, however my chosen route is blocked by a truck parked across the street and several slightly menacing looking men. It turns out they're security, I know this because they have day-glo vests which display the word 'Security' in big letters across their broad shoulders - nice work Watson!
It turns out that this is a film shoot for the new Captain America movie out some time in 2011. The security is tight thanks to some Hollywood heavyweights on the cast including Samuel L. Jackson, Chris Evans, Hugo Weaving and our very own Dominic Cooper, how very glamorous!
Unfortunately I don't get a glimpse of anyone remotely famous (at least no one I recognise), what I can see though is the set which resembles a New York street circa 1940 complete with vintage cars and extras milling about and looking sharp in zoot-suits.
Of course it's no coincidence that Manchester pays more than a passing resemblance to the Big Apple, or rather I should say that the Big Apple resembles Manchester. As the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution Manchester was the most technologically advanced city in the world at the end of the nineteenth century and the blue print for a modern, progressive metropolis.
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Manchester imitating New York |
New York's own red brick architecture was built by imported Mancunian builders to emulate the world's most industrialised city. Over 40 other cities around the world actually named themselves Manchester such was the city's success. Imitation they say is the most sincere form of flattery, and Manchester has received more than its fair share of both it would seem.
The resulting film set looks incredibly convincing and I make a mental note to hit the flicks once the film is released and not resort to screaming "I was there when they filmed that!" like some incredible dullard.
Enough history though - I'm such a bore once I get started, and anyway, shopping beckons!
It's a short detour around the film set to my destination, the Northern Quarter. This area of the city has become Manchester's creative, urban heart in recent years and a great place to head for a slice of real Manchester. Although just a stones throw from the high street shops and brands in and around the city centre, this area of Manchester is well known for its independent outlets, cafes and restaurants and also some of the city's hippest nightlife.
During the day the area also reminds me a little of New York and the East Village in particular. It's arty, quirky and a little eccentric and it is easy to see why artists, media types and independent retailers thrive here.
If a place was made for browsing this is it, the psychedelic cup cakes at Café Pop look tempting, but deadly so I resist and next door the retail experience at Pop Boutique is truly out there. Vintage fashion is a big draw for the area and American Graffitti is the place to head for all things retro.
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Manchester Craft & Design Centre |
Actually I'm more of a label queen and thankfully I'm not disappointed. Oi Poilloi's casual fashion range spans the globe and features brands that are not just bang on trend - but BIG BANG on trend. The independent fashion-fest extends further at Affleck's, a former department store that has been re-invented to house dozens of concessions from up and coming designers and brands. I depart with several bags of new threads, and oodles of fashion kudos!
I've also ear-marked the Manchester art and design centre as worth a visit. Situated in a former Victorian railway building the centre also houses concessions, this time from local artists and crafts-people. All wrought iron with a completely glass roof the natural light in this building lends itself perfectly as a creative space and is utilised to the full. Ceramics, jewellery, prints and paintings each one a perfect and unique Christmas gift - had I not just blown my budget on yet more designer jeans and trainers!
But at least I'll look fabulous at Christmas.
I'm starving! Luckily I clocked what looked like a promising lunch option whilst doing the rounds and head back for a closer look. It's called Teacup and there are even a few gay and lesbian couples lunching or perusing menus. I had been thinking that this was just the kind of area that would attract a few family members so happily I'm not disappointed.
Right on queue, a whole fleet of Berties (the collective noun for a group of gay men) arrive, obviously lunch with the girls is very much on the menu today and the excitement is palpable. I manage to crack an 'alright luv' and a cheeky wink from one of the party but can only manage a weak smile in return - how dreary!
However I do also feel like I have been part of some 'in' kind of banter, which feels good and skip out after lunch - all light on my loafers!
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Manchester's Exchange Square |
Exiting the Northern Quarter I find myself right on Piccadilly Gardens, which is the very heart of Manchester. It's all hustle and bustle here, a far cry from the relaxed cool of the Northern Quarter, even if it is only a couple of streets away.
None the less Piccadilly is home to its own shopping delights, and the area around Exchange Square, The Triangle and New Cathedral Street, King Street and St Ann’s Square which is positively packed with high street brands and stores.
This was the area of Manchester that was destroyed by an IRA bomb in 1996 and the consequent re-development has made this one of the most attractive shopping centres for both retailers and the public alike.
I particularly like the pedestrianised Market Street, home to the Arndale Centre and a pleasant change from the car clogged centres of many cities. Manchester is also, rather fabulously, home to Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and House of Fraser which is testament to the city's success as a serious retail destination.
Sadly for me (and my bank balance) I'm already salivating at the thought!
Manchester is only 2 hours and 7 minutes from London.