Monday 20 December 2010

Getting My History Straight

Hi there! My name is Darren Cooper and when they let me out of my box, (which does happen occasionally!) I like nothing better than the freedom of the open road, the wind in my hair and the smell of pleather in my nostrils.

Weekend Bender Part IV - Getting my history straight.

I was never that interested in history at school, it just didn't seem relevant to me then I don't think. Perhaps as I've gotten older I can relate more to the past, certainly my interest in modern history is much more keen than it used to be.

I guess that is the key isn't it, relevance. There's no point listening to even the most animated spokesperson if you have little or no interest in the subject.

Rainbow tile
Thankfully Manchester's LGBT history is something that this city positively celebrates - now there's a subject I can relate to. In fact since Europride was held in Manchester in 2003, the city has run its very own official LGBT history trail which is hosted by LGBT guides from the city's visitors centre, more details can be found at this link.

This is also just one of two officially sanctioned LGBT history walks to take place in any city in the world, the other being in San Francisco.

Anyone who knows Manchester will also know that this is a city that is awash with a vibrant modern history. The birthplace of the Industrial Revolution, the Suffragette movement started here as did the labour movement for workers rights. The city has always spawned big ideas, Karl Marx and Engels were inspired to write the Communist party manifesto in the city.

All of this history is well documented though, having been duly recorded for the history books, which can't be said of Manchester's queer past. When delving back as far as the late 1700s things start to get a little murky, this just makes for a more personal and interesting history lesson as far as I am concerned though.

One of the few places where there are records is the law courts where the sentences for hard labour - which used to be the punishment for homosexuality - were handed out. The records go as far back as the late 1700s until the Victorian era with hundreds of gay men being jailed. Ironically the courts are at the beginning of Canal Street which of course is now the heart of Manchester's gay village.








It's not just this area that the trail takes in though and there are over 20 rainbow tiles set in the pavement in all parts of the city to commemorate LGBT history. These tiles were commissioned by Manchester Council from local artist Mark Kennedy, and each one marks a significant moment and a colourful story in the city's history.

One such story is of a party which was raided by police in the city centre in 1880, taking place in of all places a temperance hall. Police reports of the actual raid tell of "disgraceful proceedings" and of the 47 men in attendance 22 being dressed as women. 

This is just one many tales of illicit and secretive meetings and events taking place in and around the city. Certainly a sure sign that Manchester's queer life was alive and kicking even in the up tight - buttoned up Victorian era.


Alan Turing statue
As well as stories from the every day lives of gay and lesbian Mancunians some famous names are also mentioned in the tour. Edward Carpenter, Quentin Crisp, Noel Coward and Alan Turing all feature at some point during our 2 hour walk.

Most poignant perhaps is the story of Alan Turing who is now rightly recognised with his own statue in Sackville Gardens as well as having one of Manchester's main streets named after him.

Despite being part of the code breaking team at Bletchley Park that cracked the enigma code during World War II Turing was still prosecuted because of his homosexuality in the 1950s. His tragic story highlights why it is so important to remember our history and certainly makes me think about the freedom that I so often take for granted.

If you're interested in organising a tour for a group of friends then call the Manchester Tourist Information Line on 0871 222 8223

Manchester is only 2 hours and 7 minutes from London. 

Fly to Manchester in 60 minutes from London with British Airways  and BMI

For even more information visit the official Visit Manchester LGBT website.

Thursday 2 December 2010

Weekend Bender - Part III

Hi there! My name is Darren Cooper and when they let me out of my box, (which does happen occasionally!) I like nothing better than the freedom of the open road, the wind in my hair and the smell of pleather in my nostrils.

Flip Round the Fruit Loop

If there is anything that is going to motivate me to hit the town it's a new outfit, and thanks to my recent shopping spree I have just the ticket to make a splash on Canal Street. No - that doesn't mean that I'm planning a dip, are you crazy - in these jeans!

I'm glad that we've got that sorted out.

Personally I like walking and have no problem discovering a city on foot. Those of you who are not so big on travelling à pied though will be pleased to know that there's a great public transport system in Manchester, but I won't be needing that to get to the gay village and Canal Street.

Canal Street Night-life
Staying in the centre of the city is of course the best option as everything is close by and there's plenty of choice for all budgets. My own hotel, The Place I've mentioned before is a 4 star apart so hotel, so there's loads of space and also it's just a hop, skip, and, oh another skip (well why not) to the villagey gayness along and around the famous Canal Street.

This waterside, pedestrianised area has to be some of the best real estate in the North West of England, but it wasn't always the case. After the canal's decline as a mode of transport for industry the area became very run down and derelict. As with many cities these neglected areas are ripe for regeneration and the local LGBT community were quick to make their mark on the area.

It began with a few clandestine venues where friends of Dorothy gathered and furtive meetings along the dark canal tow path were all gay and lesbian visitors could expect - how things have changed!

Canal Street today is a positive cornucopia of queer and boasts a glittering procession of venues that are anything but inconspicuous. I'm pretty certain that bars like Queer, which proudly displays its name in huge shiny silver lettering is a relatively recent edition to Canal Street. At least I can't imagine such a prominent declaration of poofery would have been imaginable even a couple of decades ago.

The most famous queer street in the UK
Of course all of that has changed now and Manchester announced itself on the world stage, sequins and all, with arrival of the excellent Queer as Folk (the UK version is still the best), which launched Man-chest-heria!

Talk about from one extreme to the next! First you're not allowed to be a fruit, next minute we are everyone's favourite five a day, make up your minds people!

The resulting publicity for the area was no doubt a good thing but there was a downside. When the Slug and Lettuce moved on to Canal Street for a slice of the gay action Manchester's LGBT community knew that something had to be done, and so the Village Business Association was conceived.

Thankfully there has been a redressing of the balance and actually the number and variety of queer venues has actually increased, while the Slug and Lettuce is now no more, shame!

It's worth mentioning that it's not only just Canal Street where you'll find a sprinkling of fairy dust either. Richmond and Bloom Streets just behind Canal Street are definitely also worth exploring, so I'd definitely recommend taking a flip around the fruit loop.

Canal Street at Night
My own evening started at Velvet, which caters for sleepers in the hotel, drinkers in the rather glamorous street level bar and, in my case eaters, thanks to an equally swanky basement restaurant.

Next door at this end of Canal Street is Taurus, another queer restaurant and bar which, like Velvet it turns out is big on community involvement. The friendly locals are vocal supporters of their pubs which is evident in the amount that they give back and get involved in local LGBT issues.

Thankfully my new friends are full of advice on where I should take in on my night out. Queer just next door on Canal Street is highly recommended, certainly the crowds inside jumping to the dance music seem to agree. I have time for a sly one in Churchills, a traditional gay pub that's fun and friendly before moving down Canal Street in search of further treats.

The most popular bars also seem to be the largest with more high octane goings on at Crunch and Manto, which are packing in plenty of punters. Spirit is obviously another favourite spread over 3 floors, further inspection also reveals a rather snazzy roof terrace.

I settle for another drink (or two) and a boogie at Via courtesy of some drag-spun camp classics before venturing off Canal Street to New York New York  via Vanilla, Manchester's favourite lesbian bar, which by the way is going off, those Manchester ladeez certainly know how to party!

My last call of the evening is one of the latest additions to Manchester's gay scene, The Eagle. Just behind the strip on Bloom Street this is one of several men only bars that have recently opened up in the village. Another step that Manchester's LGBT community have taken to keep the village str8 friendly, but essentially it's us who are still in charge here.

Members of the Village Business Association include: 


AXM
Baa Bar
Body Positive Northwest
Churchills
Clone Zone
Crunch2
Cruz 101
Gaydio
George House Trust
Hot Village
Lesbian Gay Foundation
Manto
Manchester Pride
New York New York
Poptastic
The Rembrant Bar & Hotel
Spirit
Taurus
The Gay Village Online
Velvet
Via Fossa
View
Village Off Licence 

Manchester is only 2 hours and 7 minutes from London. 

Fly to Manchester in 60 minutes from London with British Airways  and BMI

For even more information visit the official Visit Manchester LGBT website.